Lovely Lucca

LUCCA  has a knack of making foreigners like you and me feel right at home, probably because this Italian city has been welcoming them for many centuries.

The former capital of Tuscany from the 6th to 9th centuries has been a crossroads of trade routes throughout the ages, and was once a place of great power, wealth and influence.

It has an abundant water supply, lush vegetation and fertile farmland (the word "luc" comes from the ancient Celtic settlements and means "swampy ground"). 

So when the city's economy gradually moved from trading to farming  in the 17th century, sprawling villas with magnificent gardens and fountains began to dot the countryside and now also attract inquisitive 21st century tourists.

But this pretty Tuscan city of 90,000 people each year sees thousands of international and  Italian visitors who mostly come to stroll, cycle, jog and marvel at the 12m high walls that encircle the central business district.

Many start their circuit along the walls from Piazza Vittorio Emanuele that leads to Baluardo di Santa Maria where the Caffe Delle Mura has been located in the barracks since 1840.

Then they go through Porta San Pietro - the oldest and originally the only accessible gate to foreigners. 

Among the sights to take in along the 4.2km walls include important 19th century structures such as the Rotonda by Lorenzo Nottolini and the aquaduct that brings water to the city from the Pisan mountains, the botanical gardens and the apse and bell tower of San Martino cathedral (Lucca's duomo).

From Porta Elisa, the view is of the two towers of San Gervasio and San Protasio that mark the powerful medieval gate and the outlines of the decuman. And from old Porta Santa Maria, the Baluardo Di San Frediano has an amazing view of the apse of the church and the rear of Palazzo Pfanner and its gardens.

The walls and the top of the 44.25m high Guinigi Tower (started in 1384 and now characterised by a rooftop tree) offer the most outstanding perspectives of the city. 

The serenity enjoyed today within the walls, however, conceals the  long history of drama the residents have had to withstand - through Roman domination in the 3rd century BC and the construction of the first fortified ring of walls around the city, through conquerers, conflicts with Pisa and Genoa that forced Lucca to build a second circle of 12m high walls between the 13th and 14th centuries, and the jealousy and greed that often go hand in hand with political and economic power and prosperity that also once divided the city.

The 16th century marked the final attempt to protect Lucca's land and power, with work beginning in 1513 on new walls. 

But by the time the work was finally completed, the danger had passed and the only "attack" was from the 1812 flooding of the Serchio River, held off by closing the gates and sealing them with blankets and mattresses.

While other similar cities tried reorganisation and reconstruction to disastrous effect, the stony resolve and conservative nature of the citizens of Lucca managed to save the walls and unique urban area that also features the Roman amphitheatre which was totally incorporated into houses with an AFL football field-size piazza in the middle.

A number of events celebrating the 500th anniversary of the muri (walls) are scheduled throughout October this year to mark the milestone.

But Lucca is so much more than a walled city. 

And if it's Tuscan ambience you desire, then you better spend a night or two because the city is best savoured in the early evening.

That's when the walking tours and daytrippers from Pisa and Florence have gone home and all that is left are quiet, relatively deserted cobblestone alleyways (except perhaps for the occasional dog walker and driver in a rush to get home from work) and piazzas filling up with diners at al-fresco cafes.

Shopping streets such Via Roma, squares including Piazza Napoleone, towers like Torre dell'Ore, palaces from Palazzo Ducale to Palazzo Mansi, and the Amphitheatre are given back to the locals and those staying longer in the cheerful hotels and pleasant B&Bs (including Antica Corte dei Principi in Via Dell'Olivo with its medieval-style interior decor).

Each town in this region is unique with its own attractions but maintains its shared Tuscan charm - from the walled cities of Lucca and Siena and the tower town of San Gimignano, to Pisa with its Leaning Tower in Miracle Square, and Florence with its world-renowned Uffizi Gallery, impressive cathedral and Pont Vecchio medieval bridge over the Arno River.

But thousands of travellers each year are moved to call Lucca their favourite city in Tuscany, if not all of Italy.