DAY 24: PARIS

WE bid farewell to the United Kingdom and said bonjour to "gay Paree" today with the help of Eurostar.

From St Pancras in London (opposite Kings Cross) to Paris du Nord, the high-speed train journey takes only two hours and 15 minutes and is capable of travelling at maximum speeds around the 300kmh mark.

We zoomed past the French countryside too fast to photograph successfully, making cars doing more than 100kmh on the motorways running parallel to the rail line seem like they were out for a Sunday drive in the country.

Like the Eurostar, we're speeding through Europe. Over the  23 days of our journey so far, we've felt at times like we're participating in our own version of television's The Amazing Race (and losing). And yes, I already feel like it's all too much, too soon, too quickly.

But I forgave myself the moment we finally arrived in Montmartre about 4pm this afternoon - already having caught four trains on the Metro to pick up our Paris Pass from the Hard Rock Cafe, sort out our European SIM cards and arrive at Regyn's Hotel - virtually right outside Abbesses train station and right in the heart of the Sacre Coeur-Place du Tertre district.

We lugged our oversize backpacks (yes, without a car I now admit I may have overpacked!) into the one-person-at-a-time lift, put the card in the door, opened the windows to the Montmartre cafes  ... and blinked to make sure our eyes weren't playing tricks.

Church bells tolling the hour across the road seemed to herald the view before us of the Eiffel Tower, looming right smack bang in the centre of our windows. So close, you wanted to reach out and touch it.

We dragged ourselves away from the hotel room and up Montmartre's famous flights of stairs to Sacre-Coeur. And I could not help my immediate reaction.

I have always wanted to see the Basilica of the Sacred Heart for her dome and the Paris panorama from her steps. It was all I had hoped for and more.

Then we walked through the doors inside ... and tears began streaming down my face.

I am not Catholic and would not consider myself overly religious. But the artistic beauty inside - dominated by the intricately tiled mosaic in the apse titled Christ in Majesty and among the largest the world, coupled with the detailed leadlight windows - is a sight to behold.

I did the right thing and abided by the no-photography rule but I'm sure you can google images. I cannot imagine what I will be like at the Sistene Chapel if I can't hold it together here.

Our afternoon turned into a twilight stroll around the al-fresco cafes and multiple artists creating portraits and caricatures for the masses of tourists.

Finally we sat down for a couple of hours of people-watching, good wine, cold beers and our first real French food in Paris from our curbside table at La Boheme (a hearty three courses of salmon terrine/liver pâté, boeuf bourguignon and chocolate mousse for 11.50euro each).

Life is good ... if not a little hectic.

Lesson of the day: Don't get angry at the late-night revellers keeping you awake. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Sleep in and make the most of the summer twilight, even if it does mean burning the midnight oil.