After more than two months travelling, we needed some downtime, and this was it: gazing over the water at the towns creeping up the mountainsides from our Hotel Splendid sun lounges in Baveno.
The (very) fresh waters of the lake welcomed us in for a brief dip once we'd built up a sweat in the glorious sunshine.
The views of the lake from our hotel were just too majestic to leave. So we lay there for hours. And hours. A rarity on any holiday for us.
We even decided to stay put instead of taking up an optional excursion to the palace and gardens on Isola Bella (but those who did came back gushing over the opulent interiors and beautiful setting).
By mid-afternoon, though, we did feel the need to get the blood flowing again.
So we took a 10-minute stroll into town and sat by the water with a local beer and wine at one of the pretty waterfront establishments called Bar Clipper.
With newfound energy, we walked uphill through town past the parish church (Santi Gervaso e Protaso) and train station and back down to the water's edge.
The 66km long Lake Maggiore is 10km wide with an area of 212.5square km and is Italy's second-biggest lake after Lake Garda.
Our evening was taken up exploring a second island in the lake, Isola Madre, which also boasts a magnificent 16th century villa (including a fascinating number of age-old marionettes complete with the Borromeo family's elaborate puppet sets and backdrops) and subtropical gardens, before a hearty dinner under a vine-covered pergola at La Pescheria on the third island in the lake, Isola Dei Pescatori O Superiore (Fishermen's Island).
The cruise back to the hotel was even more spectacular with a midnight blue sky pierced by the full moon, the Borromeo palace on Isola Bella glowing, and a fairyland of lights from towns all around the lake reflected on the water.
George Clooney can have Lake Como. Neighbouring Lake Maggiore is my special place in Italy.
Lesson of the day: Sometimes you see more by standing/sitting still.
Hairy, shirtless men count: too many.
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