Wednesday, 25 September 2013

DAY 76-77: ROME

IT'S 6AM and the Pantheon is deserted. Finally, we can take a photo without a tourist in sight.
One or two delivery vans park nearby but manage to stay out of our shot.
Next mission: the Spanish Steps.
We tried to conquer Rome in one day but managed to head in the wrong direction twice yesterday in seeking out the must-see sights.
Today, a chance spotting of an almost upside down sign points the way to the surprisingly close staircase that rises steeply from the Piazza di Spagna at the base and the Trinità dei Monti church at the top. 
We have been beaten to the punch to greet the landmark this morning by a seriously determined photographer and a man reading a newspaper. Neither of them appear to be going anywhere soon.
But our view is phenomenal anyway - both looking up from street level (as we take our lives in our own hands with the growing traffic) and bounding (?) the steps and being rewarded with a sunrise panorama over the city.
Drivers are milling around with their takeaway coffees at the nearby taxi rank and early-shift workers are waking up slowly as they reluctantly walk down still grey streets.
So now we have the colossal Colosseum in our sights, having already marvelled at the wonder under lights only nine hours earlier. 
I pinch myself we have it almost all to ourselves as we once again walk its circumference and watch workmen take down and erect scaffolding for maintenance (construction of the Colosseum began in 70AD so I guess they can be forgiven for spoiling an otherwise perfect photo). 
I feel strangely drawn to this arena like no other Roman landmark and have flashbacks of Russell Crowe in Gladiator swirling around my head.
After strolling the rows of Rome's iconic umbrella pines, we do a brisk zigzag to our accommodtion almost opposite the Pantheon for breakfast.
The route passes more ruins, fountains, statues, churches and monuments than I ever dreamed I would see in one place, including the stark white Vittorio Emanuele II Monument (the first king of a unified Italy. Given the derogatory nickname "The Wedding Cake", the monument also acts as the national war memorial as it contains the tomb of the First World War's Unknown Soldier). 
But we have only scratched the surface of what we can see in this city that remains a fascinating chronicle of Man.
Residents today must live with more than 2000 years of history above and below ground in their beloved Roma and the responsibility that brings. 
But there's nothing dead and buried about this vibrant, crazy, intoxicating, infuriating, larger-than-life Italian capital.
Over the next two days, after joining our Globus Italian Mosaic 13-day "circumnavigation" of the country, we revisit most of our own discoveries such as the boisterous Piazza Navona, plus add many more - from the Sistine Chapel with Michelangelo's ceiling masterpiece, the fascinating collections of art and history in the Vatican museum and the stunningly beautiful and monolithic St Peter's Basilica in the world's smallest country to walking in the footsteps of giants of men in the Roman Forum and the unexpected elegance of Santa Maria sopra Minerva (Basilica of St Mary over Minerva housing the Tomb of St Catherine of Siena).
Thankfully, we return to the Trevi Fountain as part of our Roman Highlights optional tour because we had thrown too many coins over the wrong shoulder into the water a day earlier and, according to legend, would be divorced by now if not corrected!
Most importantly, we celebrate the pleasure of eating without rushing, the glorious wholesome flavours of organic ingredients (rich, juicy, sweet tomatoes to die for), traditional, hearty dishes over mutiple courses, and easy-drinking but inexpensive wine.
We find these everywhere from piazza ristorantes with a people-watching view such as Caffe Domiziano in Piazza Navona, to swish alleyway trattorias and casual pasticcerias and pizzerias, to too-good-to-pass curbside panini and foccacia vans and famous gelaterias such as Giolitti.
Our Globus guide Simonetta warns us from the start that Italy is a little different from the rest of Europe. And to be prepared for it being a little crazier, a little louder. 
In three days, we quickly learn that Italians speak in conversations that sound like arguments at times but their sing-song language can still soothe like a lullaby.
They talk with their hands like actors gesturing on stage or offer a huge smile that can speak volumes.
They are a passionate people in everything they do, and don't care what the rest of Europe thinks about them.
They like to break the rules, especially the road rules. Actually in Italy, there are no discernible road rules and nowhere near enough parking. Turning in front of oncoming traffic, overtaking with a hair's breadth of the surrounding cars and playing chicken with the traffic are national sports.
If there's a hard way of doing things that takes 10 times longer, the Italians will find it (trust me, I have personal experience with the Italian postal service and that's three hours of my life I will never get back!).
But all that just endears the Italians to me even more.  So bring it on.

Lesson of the day: Even an Aussie girl with Scottish, English and German heritage can be mistaken for an Italian by Italians twice in two days.
 


















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