Tuesday, 17 September 2013

DAy 67-69: MONACO


THE steep hillsides have such a high concentration of homes and apartments for its 30,000 residents, the effect is like a giant quilt.
But this is no slum area. Far from it.
In fact, among the architectural structures from the hilltops to the sea are a palace, location settings for a James Bond novel and movies, a high-rolling casino, shops offering some of the world's most expensive designer labels, a Formula One grand prix circuit with spectator stands and pitlane, fortress walls, stylish mansions, and marinas filled with multi-million-dollar yachts - some complete with helicopter pads. 
Welcome to Monaco, where even we peasants can feel like royalty.
And believe it or not, the high life still has its bargains.
Our Globus La France tour accommodation is the Riviera Marriott La Porte De Monaco Hotel in Fontvieille, right on the water, overlooking a small marina boasting millions of dolars worth of vessels of all shapes, sizes and origins.
Aussie accents can be heard across bows from lucky souls working as superyacht captains, deckhands and hostesses.
Everyone smiles and seems happy in Monaco. Maybe that's because citizens of this two square kilometre country (only Vatican City is smaller) pay no taxes.
But getting your official paperwork stamped to enjoy all this luxury and benefits isn't easy, with only a handful of passports approved each year, and head of the principality Prince Albert II reportedly makes the final decision himself.
A swim in the Mediterranean is on the cards for us first up.
The Mediterranean Sea is only a five-minute walk away at Plage Marquet and looks absolutely alluring, though we're thankful for our reef shoes and thongs on the stony beach.
We find few people are swimming except us. Most are here to be seen (sometimes sans bikini top) to become as brown as a berry and to do very little for hours on end but gaze out towards the vessels coming in and out of Port de Cap d'Ail.
Plage da Larvotto and Plage Malo are the other two beaches where locals and tourists like to show off their tans.
If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. So we spend a lazy hour or two here and back at the hotel pool bar before dressing up for the "obligatory" visit to the Casino Monte Carlo of Bond film Casino Royale fame.
It was a sure bet we'd lose our modest amount of money on the pokies (we didn't even attempt our usual blackjack or roulette games). But you can enjoy the opulence of the beautiful casino interiors, ceiling frescos and artworks on the walls for free.
And for even more tasteful grandeur than you ever imagined, pay a visit to the jaw-dropping palace (Palais Princier, but the royals spend most of their time at a more modest mountain residence).
Here, take the audio guide and be welcomed by Prince Albert himself in a special message before surrounding yourself in history and the life of the Monaco royals including the late Princess Grace (Grace Kelly), whose beauty still shines brightly from her portraits (no photos allowed unfortunately).
Our walk up to the palace from Fontvieille takes us past Stade Louis II where very fit, young and good-looking football players are training, up through public gardens flanked by apartment buildings, a showroom with the Prince's private automobile collection, lookouts over Port Hercule Marina and the hillside metropolis.
While we expected to pay through the nose for food, drink and knick-knacks, we found plenty of inexpensive cafes and places to snack, the drinks were very reasonabe and we bought a truckload of souvenirs here as gifts.
But perhaps the highIight of our time in Monaco is our final night when we sign up for a special dinner with a panoramic drive to Eze on the top of a nearby mountain.
Eze is split into three: the beach down below, the village in the middle and the Pass at the top.
Our restauratnt, La Bergerie, run by a Perth Aussie and former UK journalist, has a spectacular view over the Mediterranean Sea, the village and surrounding countryside that is c'est magnifique.
With a plentiful menu and wine to match the exquisite vista, our cup runneth over with joy.
And we are drunk enough on convivial atmosphere to laugh off the tight twists and hairy bends our coach driver Antonio masterly conquers on the way back down the mountain.

Lesson of the day: Paupers can still look the part and pretend to be somebody in Monaco ... and no one will know the difference.

Cote d'Azur tunnels count: 432 (that may be a slight miscalculation. There may be more!)
Bidet count: 2





























No comments:

Post a Comment