Thursday, 12 September 2013

DAY 65| BIARRITZ



THERE will only ever be one Surfers Paradise for Aussies - the iconic golden sands that belong to the long stretch of open break between Main Beach and Broadbeach on Queensland's Gold Coast.
But Biarritz is "surfers' paradise" to the French.
And I must admit, on a glorious summer day and with a small surfable wave, this beach in southern France comes close to resembling our own.
At least unlike many European beaches, this one has soft sand.
With Billabong, Quiksilver and Roxy clothing and equipment dominating the retail windows throughout the busy shopping areas, nearby Hossegor hosting pro circuit competitions and a laid-back beach culture, Biarritz certainly looks like a surfing hub.
Since 1993, the annual Biarritz Surf Festival has attracted longboarders from around the world. 
On the day we visit, a surf school has attracted more than a dozen newly initiated boardriders into the whitewater.
Our globus tour guide Philippe tells us that the population of 23,000 doubles for the July-August-September summer high season.
But surfers are only relatively recent "pilgrims" here.
Eighteenth century doctors prescribed the saltwater benefits of Biarritz to patients to cure all manner of ailments such as arthritis and rheumatism.
The seaside village was put on th map well and truly in 1854 when Napoleon III's wife Empress Eugenie built a palace on the beach (one visitors cannot miss as they enter the town by car or tour bus) which is now the sprawling Hôtel du Palais. 
Since 1901, the world's high rollers and small-time gamblers have hit Biarritz to try their luck, with the Barrière and the Bellevue casinos by the Grande Plage enticing the wannabe nouveau rich.
Only 18km from the border, Spaniards can enjoy a day trip to Biarritz, perhaps taking in  the headland promenade (Esplanade de la Vierge) to the statue of the Virgin Mary, the marina and cafes, and the Museum of the Sea, which has 24 aquariums containing sharks and seals.
These cliffs and headland lookouts to the west of the main beach are a favourite with amateur and professional photographers alike.
The Spanish influence is evident in the town with takeaway shops selling churros (deep-fried doughnut snacks) and aromatic paella, and shoe stores offering ever-popular espadrilles (sandals).
This is also Basque country and the Basque people still have their traditioal villages in the mountains on the French and Spanish sides and use their local dialect.
Biarritz pastry shops sell gateau basque: a cake filled with custard and almonds (the traditional variety) or a very sweet version filled with cherries.
The first tourists to Biarritz were the Russians and British who began coming in winter in the early 19th century to escape the cold.
The Brits' desire to play golf on holidays saw the first golf course in France open in Biarritz.
The former whaling station is also a hotspot for skiers in winter as the Pyranees Mountains are close by.
But above all, Biarritz has become a favourite with the big-spending jetset including multi-milionaires from Russia and the Middle East who can afford the prime real estate with Atlantic Ocean views.
So it seems our own Surfers Paradise has some competition with Biarritz in the glitz and glamour stakes.

Lesson of the day: The early bird catches the best tour group breakfast.


























No comments:

Post a Comment