DAY 61: ST MALO

A PERFECT summer's day has led into a perfect moonlit night in Brittany in the north-west of France.

The beachside promenade is sprinkled with couples of all ages strolling arm in arm or hand in hand, talking over the day's events or chatting excitedly about their holiday.

Love is definitely in the air now the sun has gone down and, two by two, they head  towards the golden glow of their romantic destination: the medieval citadel.

I'm sure the Saint-Malo forefathers who built the walled city where it now stands never intended it to woo enemies from across the English Channel or beyond the Rance River.
But in the 21st century, the ramparts, battlements and towers of the city - once the base for notorious pirates - create a magical place at night that melts the hearts of lovers who come here from around the world.

And the convenience of the unusual setting comes in handy to walk off a three-course dinner at one of the colourful Old Town al-fresco cafes or beachside restaurants.

We've just finished dining with our Globus tour conpanions at A Table d'Henri, right opposite our Hotel Oceania on the Sillon beachfront. So we are keen to join the numerous couples in stopping here and there along the massive walls to gaze out towards the distant lighthouse, watch the busy ferry port vessels go back and forth, and take photos of ourselves on the fortress - the biggest and best "sandcastle" I've ever seen. Even a faint smell of seaweed lingering in the air isn't enough to put anyone off this nightly ritual.

Inside the walls, the tall granite buildings housing all manner of commercial undertaking from hotels and cafes to art galleries and souvenir shops are doing a brisk trade. 

These buildings collectively underwent more than 30 years of reconstruction and renovation after almost being destroyed by bombings in the Second World War. Art and craft market stalls and street performers are adding to the feel-good atmosphere tonight.

Earlier in the afternoon, families made good use of the long, wide sandy beach for water sports, football and cricket, while other visitors ventured out to two small islands at low tide:  Fort National and Grand Be Island with the tomb of the writer and one of St Malo's favourite sons, Chateaubriand, who was born here in 1768.

But the night belongs to lovers.

And the best way to end such a special rendez-vous?

I recommend finding the nearest creperie to share a hot and gooey chocolate and whipped cream dessert the area is known for ... and then it's up to you to be creative.

Lesson of the day: When travelling on a tour bus, never look a gift horse (or toilet break) in the mouth.