DAY 12: DINGLE

WE'VE spoken to dozens of Irish people since we lobbed on their doorstep four days ago.

But we reckon we've found no more authentic Emerald Isle characters than Seamus and Paddy (yes, I swear that was their names) at Murphy's Pub in a tiny town called Ballyferriter as we tackled the picturesque Slea Head Drive around the Dingle Peninsular.

The pub was about halfway around from Dingle Town and seemed like as good a place to stop as any for a quiet lunchtime refreshment. An innocent pat of the pub mascot dog started off a hilarious banter involving us, the barmaid, Paddy and Seamus in which Seamus was likened to the pet canine because he doesn't do much but sleep, and to Max the stuffed dog ornament sitting on the floor because he's about as useful.

Then it was Paddy's turn. We learnt he was a stray the pub picked up a while back and the question was asked if he had been spayed yet. Having a laugh with the locals made the Slea Head Drive all the more memorable. Slainte!

While we enjoyed the Ring of Kerry immensely yesterday, hubbie reckons today's little outing was even better. And I'd have to agree that Slea Head Drive is still brimming with wow moments in scenery but is less touristy and shorter.
The "find" of the day, however, was Coumeenole. At the western-most tip of the dramatic Slea Head coastline, the beach is named by National Geographic as one of the most beautiful places on Earth and was one of the main locations used in the classic film Ryan's Daughter.

You see it first from the lookout a few kilometres away. And you can't wait to follow the road down the cliff face and take the plunge.
The locals at Murphy's said they hadn't experienced this kind of summer weather for five, maybe 10 years, so we knew we were seeing Coumeenole at its absolute best. And it was worth the 15C water temperature to get amongst the majestic blue water, even if the surf was only 0.4m at best for a body surf.

Lesson of the day: Always trust a local to steer you in the right direction. Our host Dawn at Dingle Marina Lodge suggested taking Slea Head Drive as "better than the Ring of Kerry" and when the Irish are right, they're right.

Seal count: 1